All those ducts and pipes are for other things. No, you likely don't have another suitable exhaust ducting in the basement. Why this fear of drilling a ventilation hole? Unless we can tap into another ventilation in the basement? You might be able to vent it through another side (the back?) of the house, but it's probably more work and not as effective, but may be an option if you really don't want it visible on that side. Oateys Sure-Vent intended for 1 1/2 to 2 drain piping is described (at Home Depot) as in compliance with. Your bathroom needs a ventilation fan, and unfortunately, a hole in the side is the easiest and most effective way to vent it because you want the exhaust run to be as short as possible. Example AAV Size Ratings in DFUs or in Liters/Second. Don't even mention it to your contractor, unless you want some sighing and eye rolling. Can use both to travel, but different volume of people, different speeds, different parts of the street to ride on, etc. It's like comparing rollerblades to a bus. I understand that you might think that it's related because they both have to do with taking room air out, but it's completely different situations. It has NOTHING to do exhausting air in a washroom from showers/baths or smelly #2s. Can it be a replacement for an exhaust fan? Will it help to prevent mold when taking showers? This is a cheaper, easier alternative to the traditional vents on the top of soil stack. Maybe just pour a cup of water into each, just to be sure.īTW, the foul smells you're smelling are not a health hazard!I still don't understand. Drainage Sales explains how and where to use an Air Admittance Valve. Reinstating your open soil stack will certainly fix that, but the symptoms you're experiencing today are most likely heat-wave related, so temporary.Īre you sure that all your sink/shower/basin traps are full of water? In this heat, if you're not using any of them, they will empty completely or even slightly, thus allowing foul air in. These higher pressures are causing the foul air to come into the house via the traps. The raised temps are causing more active breakdown of the sewerage (either in your septic tank if you have one, or in the sewer mains) and this is causing higher pressures in the soil waste pipework. If you're smelling foul air inside your house, it's likely to be because of the heat wave that we're experiencing. Now, the AAV stops any smells coming into the loft, but still allows the negative pressure to be filled via an easier method than via the sink, shower, basin traps. The foul air in the pipes was vented to the outside when it was above the roof. Beforehand, with your open stack, the negative pressure was immediately filled from the fact that the stack was open. When you flush the toilet, a large volume of water flows down soil waste pipework, creating a negative pressure behind it. It's like a low frequency rumble as the rubber disk bobs up and down allowing air to be admitted to the stack so the negative pressure in the stack does not suck the water out of the traps of the shower, basin, sinks, etc. If it's doing its job correctly, the AAV should make a noise when the toilet is flushed. I thought an AAV was the answer to all our problems but nothing but trouble! I’m now regretting cutting the stack pipe off in the loft in the first place! I’ve attached a photo so you can see the loft set up. Would you agree? What would be the best way to vent back through the roof and is it a plumbers job or a roofers? We are thinking we should extend soil pipe back through roof and have an air vented system again. Maybe this was pulling water out of traps? But not sure how this could be solved (can toilet pressure be adjusted?). Is it worth trying a new AAV or is it just that an AAV isn’t quite right for our system? Whenever we flushed main loo the AAV made a racket and released pressure from AAV. (Loft stinks though and may be a health hazard right now?!) I emailed flo plast who said AAVs are factory tested so doubtful it’s faulty especially as only a few months old.Īnyway last night husband got in loft and took AAV off altogether and the smell has now gone from our plug hole. Husband checked manhole and all clear so no blockages. Designed for use as an individual, branch, circuit, or stack vent capacity of up to 160 DFUs (drain fixture units) on a branch and 500 DFUs on a stack. I’ve tried everything, drain cleaners etc but to no avail. Studor 20342 Maxi-Vent Air Admittance Valve with Push-Fit Rubber Connector. Our externally vented ‘traditional’ stack vent (through the roof) kept leaking through the roof with rain water so to solve the issue for good we cut off the stack pipe in the loft and fitted an air admittance valve and got a roofer to patch the roof in late April.Īll was fine until about 2 weeks ago when a horrible smell was coming through en suite shower plug hole.
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